The Moors List

The routes are arranged by grade in order from most to least dangerous. It may be assumed that the routes nearer 'safe' have harder moves on them than their equivalents above, although  obviously some routes in the same grade may be both a touch harder and more dangerous. Few of the routes are very sustained, so sustainedness is less of an issue and is referred to in the notes as necessary. I've either climbed the routes or talked to someone who has, apart from where I've noted this is not the case. Take care!

Moors routes of E6 & above as of 30/07/2015:  (the list isn't in difficulty or quality order!!)


- Dangerous -

Divine Moments of Truth H10 7a
Boulder problem to big ledge. Okay protection then followed by increasingly difficult moves up a groove. The crux lies on the upper headwall, where there is only a skyhook and distant gear to protect. Not particularly that hard, but with a stiff pull on a small hold.

- Safe -


- Dangerous -

Sky Burial H9 6c
The Magic in the Air of the next generation. Reasonable climbing, which would have a fairly low French grade, but bizarre in the extreme and fantastically bold.

- Safe -


- Dangerous -

Infinity in a Grain of Sand H8 6c
Balls-out solo, slapping wildly above paraplegia.

Psykovsky's Sequins H8/9 7a
Safe these days with modified sliders, but it remains the most physical of all the Moors' routes. Most of the moves rely on mono strength and footwork class.

The Hypocrisy of Moose H8 6c

A subtle climb that takes a devious line with marginal protection. A couple of very beautiful moves.

Esmerelda H7/8 6c
It's bad form to upgrade a route without having been on it, but there is surely no way it can be E7 to climb that wall ground up?  The top is apparently a well protected ~ font 7c mono move through a roof. The bottom is poorly protected and a wildly committing path into the unknown. 20 years old and unrepeated...

Gold H8 7a
Two decades on and Mr Waterton shows his routes are still the toughest. A hard boulder problem protected by distant side-runners. The siderunnerless ascent awaits..

Fly Agaric H8 7a
Not quite sure which is more fingery out of this and DMOT? This is substantially safer anyway. A fantastic move, powering through the air.

- Safe -

- Dangerous -

Cardiac Arrest (without siderunners) E7/8 6b
Almost certainly unclimbed. Total suicide run.

Howl Psyche E7 6b
A solo arĂȘte climb with a couple of hard moves through a roof. Pumpy, hidden and terrifying!

Are You Shpongled? E7 6a
Steady away, certain death.  A big slab with a good last move. The gentle angle makes for ample opportunity for contemplation.

Blaze of Glory E7 6a
Same again. This is the original route of the slab, up which AYS finishes.

 Ebola Tombola E7 6b
A single hard pull at a very serious height, which would be difficult GU.

Foxy Groove E7 6c
Hard first move, requiring flexibility into the groove. Slopey and hidden finish. A soft headpoint.

Elysian Fields E7 6a
Another mental line with token protection in a dubious flake. Another H6/E8 candidate. The climbing revolves around body position and getting your feet in the right order.

Fresh Arete (no siderunners) E7 6b
goey! Lots of undercuts and sidepulls, bold. Only 4 moves really.

Scut de Scun ai E7 6b
Many have linked it, few have soloed it! Perhaps becoming a target for the highball league these days. It's been a symbol of Moors boldness for over a decade, with only a single repeat. H6/E8-.

Magic In The Air E7 6b
Technical and a bit hidden. Suspect holds, bold.

The White Scoop E7 6b
Easy moves on big holds, but lots of them. Very bold with the original gear, but E6 with higher

Original Sin E7 6c 
The bottom is a font 7c in its own right. The top is a sustained solo.

The Tormented Sole E7 6b
A big pitch that takes a lot of fiddly gear early on, before a blast up the arĂȘte. Low in the grade, although perhaps not so for the GU?

The Waves Of Inspiration E7 6c
Fantastic smooth rib, with a hard sidepull pop low down and then steepening fingery climbing to a delicate and bold finish.

True E7 6b/c
The line of weakness up the Kepwick wall. Starting up the crack. Ends up being a fairly nasty fall.

Dance Of The Trance E7 7a 
A hard expedition on Monos that isn't a lot easier than Psykovsky's Sequins and traverses the left wall of this route contorting a challenge into Valiant. You're not safe and the move is wild!

Present Perfect E7 6c 
An absolutely perfect wall of rock in a perfect location. Each move is hard, although never totally desperate. All the moves done together makes for a physical route! Not quite a highball with that landing!

Penthouse Perfection E7 6c
Taking in the best of King of the Hill and Present Perfect. Some delicate and off-balance finishing moves that would not be nice to fall off! Collateral E7 6b **

A reachy move through the roof (gear at the back of this) and then tricky moves to get yourself into a very bold position, facing a mighty smash into the wall below if you fluff it.

The Art of Non-Conformity E7 6c 
An apparently padable boulder start through a roof, before 3-D shoulder moves. Steep.

Plasticman E7 7a
Highball with an ankle-snapping fall (there has been one fall and one knackered ankle). The last move is the crux and it is a fantastic pull on a sidepull. Potentially 6c outside of Moors.

Die By The Sword E7 6c
A single flowing pull move on crimps, with a foot throw to conclude. With a higher runner it's more like E6.

Stuck In The Sky E7 6c
Some small gear that seems to be half-decent. Only a couple of moves, which are hidden in the beautiful marbled stone of the wall. GU you catch an undercut and slap on feet, although perhaps this could be somewhat easier on headpoint?

A Different Kind of Blue E7 6c
A 'sport style' route with a lot of hard moves and an array of gear in different spots. ~ F7c.

Dark Star E7 6c
A couple of really good boulder problems with a jug and gear in between. The finish is spectacular.

Preteritum E7 7a
Hard eliminate with a sloping landing and then the present perfect finish.

Parochial Master E7 7b
Rancid boulder problem on lanky thumb undersprags.

- Safe -


- Dangerous -

Weasel Arete E6 6a
Low E6, but not that safe up a pleasant arete.

Battle for Tripoli E6 6a 
mental factor two potential from an off-balance scoop.

Jungfrau E6 6b 
Could potentially place a runner in the slot of Jungendstil, but tricky due to finger pump.

Gnedlmadl E6 6a

Dangerous even with a serious amount of pads

Fistful of Potash E6 6a

Not a nice fall zone, quite sequency - a soft headpoint

Turbulent Cascade E6 6a 
Softy softy esoteric solo.

Fire Dance E6 6a
Delicate and mental iron rugosity climbing, choosing not to clip the bolts. big line.

Sanctuary E6 6b
Another nice sequency solo in the hidden wood.

The Currents Of Change E6 6c
A lanky roof sequence at a serious height. GU it's nearing on E7.

Panda of inspiration  E6 6c
Joining the safe and hard with easier and bold. Good bit of climbing.

Three Screaming Popes E6 6c
A classic headpoint, having difficult to place gear and a very goey sequence. Most likely E7 to GU. The climbing is apparently fantastic.

The Otter Wilderness Route E6 6b
The line of weakness up the twin aretes buttress. You get the gear of the Moose to protect the crux leftwards, but it soon becomes very serious.

Ram-raid E6 6c
A bold bit of climbing up the big wall. Not a lot known about this.

No Expectations E6 6b
A compelling groove feature that only just sneaks into low E6 due to the dubiousness of the flared cams.

Wheat from the Chaff E6 6c
A full-on highball that is a bit spicy on its crux. Not done GU.

Archaeopteryx E6 6c
Testing slab climbing with a lot of poor feet. Crux is at an uncomfortable height.

Ch-Ching E6 6c
Powerful sequency start that leads into a very off-balance move at a good height.

Anubis E6 6b
Powerful, downright hard, moves up a wall at Danby.

Cardiac Arrest E6 6b (with siderunners)
Pretty ahead of its time  for the area in the 70s.  Depending on where you place the runners, you're facing a very bad fall. The climbing revolves around steep moves on decent holds in a very exposed position.

Pippi Longstocking E6 6c
A boulder problem and then wild moves above.

Porpoise Economy E6 6b
safe but with hard to place gear (feels E5 to HP).

Eyebrow E6 6b
Hard start leads into a full-on crack climb, which would be a big challenge GU.

Franziskaner E6 6c
Highball on smooth iron holds. Very technical and fingery.

Panda to the Masses E6 6c
Fingery set of twin cracks protected by RPs.

The Basstard E6 6c
reach, reach, reach! A good old lank in prime position on one of the nicest bits of wall at the Smugglers Terrace. The gear is a bit below you, but decent.

Desperate Den E6 6b
The original test of finger strength. These days its not too serious-a proposition with a few pads.

Top Wizard E6 7a
Highball with a fantastic double gaston crux and stabby feet.

- Safe -

No comments: