Friday, 30 April 2010
Getting a bit off route on Magic crack made me realise that climbing technical ground with leashed axes is not only sketchy, but pretty dangerous. Hence I have now modified these beautiful tools to try something hard this winter. They feel good and I fancy my chances of putting up something tricky.
Tuesday, 20 April 2010
I suppose I should briefly explain why I called the arete 'The Hypocrisy of Moose'. Rather simple really- the ascent showed me for the Hypocritical Moose I am. Anyway, a big gap now and everything else I was trying in the moors seems a little easy and chossy in comparrison.
So the list of LG(perhaps not that great)Ps in the Moors currently stands at:
*The Arete at Ravenscar direct - H9 7a? *** (attempted on shunt)
*The Groove at Kepwick- H8/9 6c ** (linked on top rope)
A few routes that need doing but aren't really amazing (although quite good):
The finger Crack at Clemmitt's - E4/5 6b **- abed
Porcupine Arete, Snotterdale- E6 6b *-climbed a tree next to it
The Aid Line Kay Nest- E6 6c? - ground inspected
On crack Stoupe Brow- E5 6b ** - ground inspected
Choss not worth doing:
Mongol wall- E9?
Death arete- Danby- E8 6b?
The Roof crack at Middlehead- E4?
The wall at Oak crag- V9
Monday, 12 April 2010
Saturday, 10 April 2010
It felt easy on lead- without the pull from the shunt unbalancing me on the super tenuous crux. A real classic I reckon, with sustained 6b climbing leading to a couple of moves of hard 6c. Feels a bit strange to be headpointing, but it's probably harder than anyone could onsight anyway and it's good to try new things.
Grading is difficult as it depends on how bomber you think the RP flake is. It's definately a lot harder than the few E6s I've done and very blind and sequencey. For the onsight i'd say it's worth E8, but for my effort probably a little less. Hopefully someone can come and repeat it and tell me if it's soft or stiff. I'm happy now :-D.
I must thank Victor Scott, who supplied me with RPs and a new chalk bag- most kind and Lee Robinson for filming it. We had a great day, with a little bouldering and then arete magic.
Friday, 9 April 2010
Tuesday, 6 April 2010
Sunday, 4 April 2010
It then rained and I returned home, only to head back out to 'Snotterdale' with Dooge. An awful name for a crag and in general the route quality is poor, but there is an ok MVS and a really good E2 5c called Desperendum. Really nicely pumpy and beautifully protected, with good, spaced finger locks. I abed down the arete to the left to see if it would go as an FA, but the top was massively dirty and it looked like a one mover at a bold 6b sort of grade.
Returned home and had some Yorkshire Puddings. Bon.
Friday, 2 April 2010
I then abed down 'The White Scoop', which was wet- annoying as I was psyched for the lead. Dooge then had an epic onsight ascent of my Central Crack (E2 5c) and after I seconded it again, we agreed it was more like E3 6a ** as the crux is pretty hard.
Abing down the wall right of the crack; which I dubbed Albatross Travels; I found a cool line of spaced crimps with no gear for 10 metres; which should give a cool new E7 and is probably the best route at the crag. A crag that just keeps giving, hopefully we'll get something hard done soon.
Thursday, 1 April 2010
I was first too scared to get on 'The White Scoop' at Ravesdale (Stoop Brow) as it is hard 6b and with a ground clipping fall, but then today I actually retreated from my attempt at a more or less un-rehersed direct finish to my E5, the Pasketti Alpinist. Admittedly the holds are tiny, it was getting dark and there is only one (POOR!) cam in 20 metres, but I had seen the holds and knew what was coming. What is wrong with me? I'm turning into a moors punter. Allez, lets get sending. Off to Ravensdale tomorrow, quite psyched to go for a headpointed ascent of the scoop.