Tuesday, 30 June 2009
Me, Luke Hunt and Dave Warburton got on the traverse today, climbing left to right in a single push in an onsight style. The first four pitches weren't without interest with some seriously cheesy rock. I led the 5c/6a Blitzkrieg pitch (with a lovely peg threaded with an RP) and luke then managed to free the aid pitch, with a massive reach and cut loose on to a sloper. It went at around 6b, with a cruicial foothold snapping off and flying into the abis on his successful attempt- making my second even harder. After I led the relatively straight-froward, but loose '5a pitch' (5b+) we then simul climbed to glory and mini-eggs. I wanted to escape off at nightwatch, but Luke (still fresh) insisted on finishing up Jurrassic Scarp, an ace finish to an amazing route. A brilliant end to over a years-worth of torment; with many tales to be told (and slightly exaggerated upon) down at the pub. ACE!
Videos of falling blocks to come!
Friday, 26 June 2009
A week off meant a drive over to the lakes. We managed to get an ascent of Triermain eliminate (E2) in before it got dark on the Monday night and met up with Luke, Miles and Tom at the CMC hut. From here we planned Tuesday’s assault- Dow.
Day three was Reecastle Crag, which is a nice big lump of barrel-shaped Ryolite. I had a little tootle up 'White Noise' (E3) which was nicely sustained and then we turned our attention to Penal Servitude (E5 6b). It was disappointingly bouldery, but Luke managed it after a little trouble. Good lead. Then I dragged everyone to Black crag for an en-mass barefoot solo of Troutdale and a look at the soft, but epic Prana (E3 5c). I was climbing well and cruised up singing 'The Vengabus', Ace!Thursday meant the departure of the Manchester Trio and me and Dooge chose to have a nice day at the Slate quarries, both leading Darklands and An Alabuse and I had a plod up Rim Fisher, with an interesting crux. It's either about 6b straight up the crack or a crap move left. I did a sort of combination. Darklands is about E1 and needs some bolts chopping, would be ace sans all but 1 bolt. Epic week, beautiful weather, no really hard routes climbed, but definitely solid at E3. :)
Monday, 15 June 2009
On Saturday we wandered up to ingleby at a steady pace in the blazing sun. The imaculate butress of Gym Junkies met us with a pleasant cool wind and we racked up. Expecting an Epic E3 6b struggle I soloed up and place a bomber size 0 cam and nut 1 in the bottom of the crack. I had a good look at the route from the ground and got on it proper.
The pull over the roof was pleasantly straightforward, but I soon realised that a left hand in the good hold meant the crux would be really badly balanced. So I came back down a couple of feet and got the good slopery thing with my right, crossed through with my left then swung out right to a crimp with my right, popped my foot up and got established.
Jamming up Cosy Corner HS
bomber Tri Cam placement
I was slightly worried. That move was not 6b, I was in a precarious position and could only find shite wires. I popped one in and wondered how hard the next move must be to be 6b. I semi tugged the wire, wishing it to stay in and it seemed to stay, so I moved on. A bit of a step up and i reached the top.
It was a bit disappointing. I was expecting a nails and safe 6b, but instead got a runout 5c/6a. Dooge then led it and agreed it was nowhere near 6b, but not massively safe either. I abed for the gear and found a bomber size 1 peanut slot, that is quite hard to find, so perhaps Tony Marr worked it on the F.A?
We then went over to try the epically tricky 'Love or Confusion' -E4 6b. The start (that some have described as V7) went with some difficulty as you have to hang off a blunt arete and pop for a crimp. I then managed to use my long reach to place a size 4 cam with one finger in the obvious pocket to protect the next, smeary but easy move. From there It looks well hard. I managed to down climb, but the top move looks insanely hard, mantelling onto a crimpy sloper. Love or Confusion climbs the blunt left arete, tis good
Then High Crag called. The last Mega Classic- Warrior. Dooge took the Sharp end first and battled his way up the crack, quite impressively. Bomber cam after bomber hex followed through the slightly awkward, but not too pumpy crux. Leading to a damp top-out. My turn followed and it went quite well, battling through the thick midges; undercutting and jamming to glory.
We descovered some boulders south west of tarn hole as well. Some really good slabby problems of about V6/7+ and a couple a bit harder. There's a good roof jamming problem at about V4 and a cool dyno which is quite hard. Might be worth a look if you can boulder quite hard and tis only about a 30 min walk in.
Epic weekend, proper tired.
Friday, 5 June 2009
Edit 2013: This is massively out of date and inaccurate. I've only kept this for amusement. The first two routes were climbed at E8 and E6!